On Sundays in Bogota some of the big roads are closed to cars so cyclists can use them. We saw groups riding through the city as we took the short walk  to Juan G’s to borrow the car.

We set out for a town called Chia to have lunch at the most famous restaurant in Colombia, Andres Carne de Res. We met a big group of people (including the Betancourts, Juan G and Martica, Lala’s sister Sandra, her husband Martin and their two kids, Andres and Luz Elena and their two girls, Manuela and Luciana, and a friend of theirs.)

After a 45 minute drive (no traffic), we reached the restaurant which occupies an entire city block. It was appropriate that we entered through a turn-style, since it was more like gaining admission to a party. ”Andres” is part restaurant, part carnival. On every possible surface re-purposed objects serve as decorations. Parts of walls are plastered with flattened bottle caps to form a medal surface, lights and bangles and all sorts of objects hang from the ceiling.

Seasonally costumed actors parade through the restaurant. It was the 3 kings, and the manger scene icons this time of year. In the back is an entire world for kids. Parents and kids are given matching arm bands so parents can enjoy themselves and not worry that someone could take their child.

The children’s area is free and contains options like dance lessons in a dance studio, movies in a theater, indoor soccer, boxing, walking on stilts, doing woodworking projects, doing crafts, face painting, and on and on.

We went for lunch and night had fallen by the time we left. There were endless things to look at and the food and special drinks came out in slow waves as we chatted. It  was delicious, but the environment was what made Andres singular.

When we left Andres, we went to the home of Luz Elena and Andres to visit because we hadn’t been able to talk much from opposite ends of the table at lunch. Their home is exquisite in every way. The architecture incorporates a huge bolder right into house. There is lots of glass through we could see the natural surroundings and mountain trees. We had a fun visit by their gigantic fireplace and Luciana and Manuela told me cute stories in well-spoken English.

From there we went to Lala’s house so I could meet her parents, Paulito and Luz Angela. Paulito showed me what a squash racquet looks like and how the ball doesn’t bounce. And he and Lala showed me photos of their dive trips in some beautiful places in Colombia. They also showed me photos of an annual flower festival in Medellin which is something like the Rose Parade with more personal-sized floats.

When we left we went to Harveys, a take-out food place Juan and Lala said people always go when they get hungry after a night of partying. Cars pull up to the curb and a man runs out from the shop with a menu, runs the order back in, and then brings it out when it’s ready– like Colombian curbside take-out. After our late-night snack we turned in.

Saturday we walked a block away to the grocery store so I could buy some wine for hostess gifts. The store was large and similar in look to a Vons. I learned that it’s not common here to send greeting cards (nor Christmas cards). They aren’t stocked in many places.

From there we strolled to Juan G and Martica’s house to pick up their car. It is Juan’s old car which he nickname Shamoo. It’s mid-size, but for Colombia it is huge like a whale.

We picked up Juan’s girlfriend, Lala (Laura Henao), who had just returned from vacation. Then we continued on to Juan’s mom’s(Patricia Medina) house in an area called Chapinero Alto. It is a pretty, quiet neighborhood of red-brick buildings. It’s near a nice restaurant area called Zona G.

Outside Patricia’s home was a horse pulling a cart. I’ve seen those all over Bogota, even on busy roads. They pick up the recycling and Juan says they cause traffic jams. The apartments here have doormen who unlock the doors when we arrive.

We visited for a while. Patricia and Lala finished preparing lunch. It was yet another special home and amazing spread. We had Patricia’s special, extra-crispy (because they are cooked in carbonated water) chicharrones, 2 kinds of friend plantains, arepas, and beans with toppings of avocado, “meat dust” (meat put through the food processor so it is extremely fine), white rice and sauces.

After lunch we had coffee (which Patricia makes the old fashion way without a coffee-maker), and Obleas (wafer sandwich with caramel in the middle). We visited for a long time having sweet conversation.

When we said goodbye we went back to the grocery store and bought Colombian candies and snacks to cary home as suvenier gifts.

The Betancourts were on their way back from Uni Centro (a shopping mall nearby) so they met us at Juan’s apartment. While the grownups (Mauricio, Nancy, Juan and Lala) had martinis, the kids (Maria, Ana and myself) watched Herculese in Espanol.

We had to leave to be prompt for dinner at the home of Juan’s dad (Juan Guillermo Lalinde) and his wife (Martica). Their apartment is a beautiful space, the true owner of which is their yellow lab, Nala. Martica created the painting in their bedroom.

We sipped wine and chatted leasurly before dinner. Martica made a salad of tuna, peas and artichoke hearts and a rice dish with saffron, steak, tomato and two kinds of cheese. It was a wonderful dinner.

After dinner we lingered, savoring old stories and new inside jokes. All the while we listened to great music on Juan G’s playlist. He gave us a ride home, only after we had lingered for hours. It was late and time for bed.

Main Square of Villa de Leyva

Juan Guillermo, Martica, Juan Felipe and I left early in the morning (6 o’clock hour) to avoid traffic and drive 3 hours to a colonial town called Villa de Leyva. Once you leave Bogota-proper there are tolls to use the roads, which are very narrow but well maintained. The drive was beautiful. About an hour out we were in the countryside. The landscape looked like Julian (San Diego County) with rolling hills, grass, and a few big trees here and there. Occasionally we’d pass grazing cows or greenhouses were flowers were being grown.

We reached Villa de Leyva mid-morning and had breakfast at a French bakery. The owner is a chef who visited the town once, fell in love with it, moved there, and opened the shop.

French Bakery in Villa de Leyva

Juan’s friends, Andres and Ana Sandoval (whom I had met in Las Vegas a few months ago) stopped-in to say hello. They’d been vacationing in Villa de Layva for several days with their two girls, Antonia and Miranda. (For Colombians this is the last vacation week of the Christmas season which begins in early December.)

Here children often go to private schools. There is a German School, an English School, an American school, etc. In their senior year, students prepare for a big exam to allow them to be admitted to college in the country for which they’ve been preparing. Antonia and Amanda attend the American school and spoke English beautifully as they sweetly showed me photos of their trip.

The town was hot, but it was a dry, unlike the humid heat of the Coffee Region. We walked around and looked at the Colonial architecture with its Spanish style balconies, cobblestone streets, and large central square. There were people strolling and dogs napping.

The old homes, whose architecture features an open courtyard in the middle, have been converted into little restaurants and shops. We sat in one such square and had a drink.

The Streets and Architecture of Villa de Leyva

Juan Guillermo, Lisa and Martica in Villa de Leyva

We drove back toward Bogota, stopping an hour short at Entre Pues, a Medellin-type restaurant. Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia and has unique cultural characteristics such as the people’s use of many idiomatic expressions, their propensity to exaggerate, and their jovial nature.  The restaurant is decorated with wood placards displaying myriad humorous expressions used there. The city also has its own variation on culinary flavors.  We shared plates of those traditional foods.

Placards at Entre Pues

Alcohol is ordered by the bottle or half-bottle. The whole thing is brought to the table like a pitcher of water would be. We had aguardiente, the signature spirit of Medellin. It tastes like annazette with a strong licorice flavor.

Half-Bottle of Aguardiente Light

Toasting with Aguardiente

Where bread would be brought automatically in the U.S., a plate of fried pork meat (chicharrones) and small corn cakes (arepas) were brought out.

I have tried many varieties of arepas but was yet to try Juan’s favorite until this meal. It’s a sweet corn pancake topped with butter and the soft cheese called quesito-delicious. I also tried something like a sausage casing stuffed with rice and other ingredients (and cooked with blood), more choriso, and sweet plantains.

After another great meal, we retired to Juan’s for the evening.

Juan Guillermo and Martica picked us up and we drove to the foot of a sheer mountain near downtown Bogota called Monserrate. From there we took a gondola up the steep slope to the peak. The vantage point allowed us to look out over the entire city, which lies in a savanna.

A catholic cathedral stands at the summit and is known for drawing people who wish to pay penance for their sins by climbing stairs to reach it. Some do so on their knees for additional suffering and punishment. We spent a few minutes in the church, and then took in the views. After that we had lunch at a restaurant also nested on the top of the mountain, and with the same incredible view.

Juan at Monserrate

Martica, Juan G. Juan F. at Monserrate

From Monserrate we went into downtown Bogota, passing the residence of the President. For about a dollar per person we purchased tickets to the gold museum (Museo del Oro) which contains a world renowned collection of gold art effects. Among the ancient treasures on display are crowns, jewelry, and religious objects.

We returned to Juan’s and worked for a few hours in the evening. We have been eating dinner much later than we would in the United States, (around 9:00 on average). Juan’s friend Marcela picked us up for dinner and we went to back to Usaquen to a fusion restaurant called Abasto.

Juan and Marcela at Abasta in Usaquen

After dinner we walked to the square, decorated with Christmas lights. There were a lot of people about because it was the last night the lights would be up.  We purchased Obleas from a vendor on the street. They are like extra-large communion wafers sandwiching a caramel sauce called arequipe. The wafers are about the size of an Eggo waffle, but paper-thin.  

Having an Oblea in Usaquen

Again I enjoyed the wonderful conversation with Marcela and Juan. And like all of my gracious hosts, they were incredibly sweet in wanting me to experience all Colombia has to offer.

Breakfast and the Jungle
Pato’s parents (Amanda and Alvaro) came over and we had breakfast with them. I was so fond of them. Pato showed us the equipment they use to harvest coffee.

Then Pato, his mom, Juan and I took a ride into what they called the forest. It is national preserve and looked like a jungle to me. We needed the 4-wheel drive of Pato’s Trooper (a vehicle of nastalgic value as he’s had it for 26 years). We walked and looked at the trees, plants and flowers. It was dense and lush. Then we headed back to the house, packed up and headed for the coffee park.

Alvaro, Pato, Amanda, Juan - At pato's House

Juan & Pato with the Trooper in the Jungle

Plantain Trees and a Wasps Nest

Pato Giving Us a Tour of the Jungle

A View of the Coffee Park Land

We went through a museum which showed the history of the Colombian coffee trade and how coffee is harvested and prepared. We took a train around the park. While it moved along a “house band” played music and it was like we were part of a partying brigade.

Where as Bogota is in the mid 70′s during the day and a cool 40 or 50 degrees at night, it was 90+ degrees and very humid in Armenia where the park is. We had to wear hats and seek shade.

We took a photo with a classic of the Armenia region, a Willys. Willys are a kind of Jeep. They are like taxis but it is a fixed price for  the price for as many people and as much cargo as will fit on them. So it’s common to see Willys driving along the winding roads completely weighed down with huge loads balanced precariously. They stack the cargo high and people grab on to any bar or bumper they can find. We saw one on the road in front of us with at least 14 people.

Juan & I on a Willys in the Coffee Park