Today we drove about an hour away to a town called La Calera to a birthday party for Juan’s goddaughter Luciana and her mom, Luz Elena. We sat outside and ate lunch while the kids played. The weather and the people were warm. Many of the guests were people whom I’d met this week.
When we returned, I packed my bag while Juan and Lala packed a suitcase of their stuff for me to bring back as they are beginning to send things to the U.S. for their upcoming move there. Juan G, Martica and Juan G’s brother stopped by for a quick visit to say goodbye.
Then we ordered in pizza and watched “Crash.” I’ve been wanting to see it for a while, and found it fascinating and powerful.
Tomorrow we’re heading to the airport at 6am, and Juan insists that they will drive me, help me get checked-in, and then have breakfast with me while I wait for the plane. How sweet is that!
So, as I head to bed, I’m signing-off from Colombia for the last time this trip. It’s been “super-rico” and very “chevere.” Buenas noches.
On Sundays in Bogota some of the big roads are closed to cars so cyclists can use them. We saw groups riding through the city as we took the short walk to Juan G’s to borrow the car.
We set out for a town called Chia to have lunch at the most famous restaurant in Colombia, Andres Carne de Res. We met a big group of people (including the Betancourts, Juan G and Martica, Lala’s sister Sandra, her husband Martin and their two kids, Andres and Luz Elena and their two girls, Manuela and Luciana, and a friend of theirs.)
After a 45 minute drive (no traffic), we reached the restaurant which occupies an entire city block. It was appropriate that we entered through a turn-style, since it was more like gaining admission to a party. ”Andres” is part restaurant, part carnival. On every possible surface re-purposed objects serve as decorations. Parts of walls are plastered with flattened bottle caps to form a medal surface, lights and bangles and all sorts of objects hang from the ceiling.
Seasonally costumed actors parade through the restaurant. It was the 3 kings, and the manger scene icons this time of year. In the back is an entire world for kids. Parents and kids are given matching arm bands so parents can enjoy themselves and not worry that someone could take their child.
The children’s area is free and contains options like dance lessons in a dance studio, movies in a theater, indoor soccer, boxing, walking on stilts, doing woodworking projects, doing crafts, face painting, and on and on.
We went for lunch and night had fallen by the time we left. There were endless things to look at and the food and special drinks came out in slow waves as we chatted. It was delicious, but the environment was what made Andres singular.
When we left Andres, we went to the home of Luz Elena and Andres to visit because we hadn’t been able to talk much from opposite ends of the table at lunch. Their home is exquisite in every way. The architecture incorporates a huge bolder right into house. There is lots of glass through we could see the natural surroundings and mountain trees. We had a fun visit by their gigantic fireplace and Luciana and Manuela told me cute stories in well-spoken English.
From there we went to Lala’s house so I could meet her parents, Paulito and Luz Angela. Paulito showed me what a squash racquet looks like and how the ball doesn’t bounce. And he and Lala showed me photos of their dive trips in some beautiful places in Colombia. They also showed me photos of an annual flower festival in Medellin which is something like the Rose Parade with more personal-sized floats.
When we left we went to Harveys, a take-out food place Juan and Lala said people always go when they get hungry after a night of partying. Cars pull up to the curb and a man runs out from the shop with a menu, runs the order back in, and then brings it out when it’s ready– like Colombian curbside take-out. After our late-night snack we turned in.
Saturday we walked a block away to the grocery store so I could buy some wine for hostess gifts. The store was large and similar in look to a Vons. I learned that it’s not common here to send greeting cards (nor Christmas cards). They aren’t stocked in many places.
From there we strolled to Juan G and Martica’s house to pick up their car. It is Juan’s old car which he nickname Shamoo. It’s mid-size, but for Colombia it is huge like a whale.
We picked up Juan’s girlfriend, Lala (Laura Henao), who had just returned from vacation. Then we continued on to Juan’s mom’s(Patricia Medina) house in an area called Chapinero Alto. It is a pretty, quiet neighborhood of red-brick buildings. It’s near a nice restaurant area called Zona G.
Outside Patricia’s home was a horse pulling a cart. I’ve seen those all over Bogota, even on busy roads. They pick up the recycling and Juan says they cause traffic jams. The apartments here have doormen who unlock the doors when we arrive.
We visited for a while. Patricia and Lala finished preparing lunch. It was yet another special home and amazing spread. We had Patricia’s special, extra-crispy (because they are cooked in carbonated water) chicharrones, 2 kinds of friend plantains, arepas, and beans with toppings of avocado, “meat dust” (meat put through the food processor so it is extremely fine), white rice and sauces.
After lunch we had coffee (which Patricia makes the old fashion way without a coffee-maker), and Obleas (wafer sandwich with caramel in the middle). We visited for a long time having sweet conversation.
When we said goodbye we went back to the grocery store and bought Colombian candies and snacks to cary home as suvenier gifts.
The Betancourts were on their way back from Uni Centro (a shopping mall nearby) so they met us at Juan’s apartment. While the grownups (Mauricio, Nancy, Juan and Lala) had martinis, the kids (Maria, Ana and myself) watched Herculese in Espanol.
We had to leave to be prompt for dinner at the home of Juan’s dad (Juan Guillermo Lalinde) and his wife (Martica). Their apartment is a beautiful space, the true owner of which is their yellow lab, Nala. Martica created the painting in their bedroom.
We sipped wine and chatted leasurly before dinner. Martica made a salad of tuna, peas and artichoke hearts and a rice dish with saffron, steak, tomato and two kinds of cheese. It was a wonderful dinner.
After dinner we lingered, savoring old stories and new inside jokes. All the while we listened to great music on Juan G’s playlist. He gave us a ride home, only after we had lingered for hours. It was late and time for bed.
